Food Schemes

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Contents

 

Part 1. Breeding Period

A. Good racing begins with good breeding!

B. Breeding programme

 

Part 2. Racing Period

A. A good start is big part of your success

B. Programme Short Distance

C. Programme Middle Distance

D. Programme Long Distance

E. Young Birds Keep Your Eyes Open

F. Programme Young Birds

 

Part 3. Moulting Period

Moulting Programme

 

Part 4. Overview of Vitamins, Food Supplements and Dosage

 

Part 5. Food Schemes For Racing Pigeons

A. Young Birds Sprint

B. Young Birds Middle Distance and National Races

C. Widowhood Short and Middle Distance

D. Widowhood Long Distance

 

Part 6. Informative Reading

A. Paratyphoid : A Sleeping Disease

B. Pigeons and Grit

C. Pigeon Pox Infection : Vaccinate or Wait

 

Part I : Breeding period.

A : Good racing begins with good breeding.

For those who like an intensive racing period with the young birds, an important period starts now : “winter breeding”.

Fanciers who are successful in young bird racing breed mostly early youngsters and race them on the darkness system. Early breeding demands extra attention and the pigeons have to be in top condition. 2 to 3 weeks before pairing up, have a general check up of the condition of your birds by a vet. If something is wrong, you still have the time to treat them and give them some extra vitamins after the treatment to stimulate the condition. Vitamins A, D, C and E deserve extra attention. It is scientifically proved that vitamin E has a very positive influence on the fertilisation. We consider the mix of wheat germ oil, brewers yeast and vitamins, 2 to 3 times in a week over the food, as a perfect combination.

Besides the classical check up swabs and dropping control, a bacterial control is advised for many lofts. This way, an eventual salmonella infection can be found, many times, this is the main reason why a lot of eggs are not filled and youngsters grow badly. Take care your stock birds are not to fat when you pair them up. Most fanciers start feeding their pigeons to heavy to long before pairing up. An easy solution for this small problem : don’t feed them for two days. After this during one week half depuratife and half breeding mixture. You mix 1 tea spoon of “ecuchol” over the food of 20 pigeons a day. In the drinker : during one week tea. The positive influence of this method, especially on the liver, will be noticed by the down feathers you will find in your loft.

In the next few weeks, the condition of your pigeons will begin to improve.

To breed early you must stimulate their passion, by this extra light in the loft is necessary. Between the time of 0600-2200. Be careful with your racing pigeons give them extra light only until they start sitting on the eggs. If extra light is given over a to prolonged time you will have widowhood birds moulted there 5th flight in May. Then the game is over, like we all know.

Another important piece of advice : Take care that the first egg is not affected by the night frost, remove the egg and replace with a plastic egg, until the second egg is laid. Eggs should then hatch at the same time. Only one last task that is to select the perfect hen, a heavy job I know. A part that keeps me awake for nights never the less I like this part of the year the most. Those of you who have paired up most successful I will notice on the race results.

B. Breeding Scheme

Three weeks before pairing up, a general check up by a vet so you can treat them if necessary.

Monday food Kweek Extra (yellow vitamin) 10 ml per kg food

Tuesday food Letalook half dessert spoon per kg food

Ornilevuro one dessert spoon per kg food

Wednesday food Aminotonic (red vitamin) 10 ml per kg food

Thursday food Kweek Extra (yellow vitamin) 10 ml per kg food

Friday food Aminotonic ( red vitamin) 10 ml per kg food

Saturday food Letalook half dessert spoon per kg food

Ornilevuro one dessert spoon per kg food

Sunday //// clean food

In winter time, mix all the products with the food.

Pigeons don’t drink that much this time of the year.

 

Part II : Racing period

Three weeks before the start of the season, a general check up.

If necesarry, birds can still be treated.

A. A Good Beginning and Half is Won !!

A new racing season will soon start. Champions from last year have their last prize presentations and the early bred youngsters are already flying around the lofts.

It’s time to start preparing the widowhood pigeons. Everybody knows that only healthy pigeons can achieve top results. That is why it’s important to give your pigeons a general check up by a specialised vet. A canker infection or a worm infestation can become a serious problem after a few weeks racing. It can also affect the whole seasons racing. The differences are so close that only a specialised vet can help you. To treat them during the winter period is not that easy, a lot of mistakes happen. Dosage is mostly calculated on one litre of water to 20 pigeons. In winter this can be limited to one-fourth of this. Treatment via the drinker during winter becomes unsuccessful. The problem is easily solved by giving the treatment over the food. Most medications in powder form can be mixed over the food. Wet the food with oil, lemon juice or liquid vitamin then take the dosage for one litre of water and mix it with enough food for 20 pigeons per day. This way you need less medication but you are always sure of the correct dosage.

It is also very important to get “the system” into your birds. Imagine they had their check up and everything appears good, but they still don’t train properly because they are to fat. Many fanciers have problems with this. A pigeon in top condition feels round but light. On this moment most are still to heavy. After 5 minutes exercise they fall heavily onto the loft roof, with open beaks especially when the temperature has increased a few degrees. At this point some fanciers think they have respiratory problems, but mostly it is not a reason to panic. You can solve this problem by mixing one third depurative, one third racing mix and one third of super diet mix together with one teaspoon of “Sorchol” per kilo of food. Feed this mixture in limited amounts and you will notice the difference in a few days. Some fanciers may notice that their pigeons are still carrying to many old down feathers, to cure this do not feed the pigeons for one day then onto depurative mixture one dessert spoon per bird per day. Give in combination with ten days on pigeon tea or apple vinegar in the water. Soon it will look like its snowing in the lofts. The start shot is given, everybody starts to work as in weeks there will be no excuses……. Have a lot of success.

 

B. Sprint Programme.

Saturday - water: Disinfecting agent after the race

food: clean food.

Give all the pigeons some “eye salve for pigeons” and eventually a tepid obliged bath to relax the pigeons.

 

Sunday - water: FLY PLUS (green vitamin) 10 ml per litre of water

or10 ml per kg food

food : clean

Give the pigeons a bath with 1 spoon bath salts or

1 spoon table salt +1 dessert spoon vinegar

Monday - water: Aminotonic ( red vitamin)

food : clean

Tuesday - water: Konditievoeder 1 teaspoon per litre water

food : Letalook (half dessert spoon per kilo) of food with

Bier and Melkgist (1 dessert spoon per kilo food.)

Wednesday - water: clean

food : LETALOOK ( 1 dessert spoon per kilo food) +

BIER - EN MELKGIST (1 dessert spoon per kilo of food)

Thursday - water: TEA SPECIAL +honey (1 teaspoon per litre of water)

food : clean

Friday - water : TEA SPECIAL + honey 1 teaspoon per litre of water

food : clean

*Note* clean = no supplements

 

C. Middle Distance Programme

Saturday- water: disinfecting agent after the race

food: clean

Sunday- water: FLY-PLUS (green vitamin) 10 ml per litre of water

food : clean

Monday- water: FLY-PLUS (green vitamin) 10 ml per litre of water

food: AMINOTONIC (red vitamin) with BIER- EN MELKGIST (one dessert spoon per kg food) + EXTRA ENERGIE (one dessert spoon per 2 kg food)

Tuesday- water: clean

food: AMINOTONIC (red vitamin) 10 ml per kg food) BIER EN MELKGIST ( one dessert spoon per kg food)

EXTRA ENERGIE (one dessert spoon per 2 kg food)

Wednesday- water: clean

food: clean

Thursday- water: clean (day of basket)

food: clean

Day of basket : “PANA W” in the beck to stimulate the pigeon.

Disinfect eyes with “OOGZALF”(eye salve)

After a difficult race you can ad “RECUVIT” to the water (1tablet per litre water)

Pigeons will recover faster.

 

D. Long Distance Programme

Day 1 water: disinfecting agent on return from race

food: clean

Give all the pigeons an obliged bath and “OOGZALF” (eye salve).

Day 3 water: clean

food: Fly-Plus (green vitamin) 10 ml per kg food with Aminotonic ( red vitamin) 10 ml per kg food also Kreavit ( one dessert spoon per kg food)

Day 5 water: clean

food: Fly-Plus ( green vitamin) 10 ml per kg food

Aminotonic ( red vitamin) 10 ml per kg food

Kreavit ( one dessert spoon per kg food)

Day 7 water: clean

food: Fly-Plus (green vitamin) 10 ml per kg food)

Aminotonic (redvitamin) 10 ml per kg food)

Kreavit (one dessert spoon per kg food)

Day 8 water: “KONDITIE POEDER” ( if necessary)

food clean

Day 10 water: “KONDITIE POEDER”

food: clean

By basketing : 1 capsula “PANA W” per pigeon and eventually “OOGZALF”.After a difficult race : “RECUVIT” (1 tablet in one litre water)

7days before the race during 4 days over the food : EXTRA ENERGIE (1 dessert spoon per 2 kilo food)+ KREAVIT (1 dessert spoon per 2 kilo food).

 

E. Young Pigeons : Stay Awake!

Health.

Preparation for a successful young bird season starts with their physical condition. A general check-up by a specialised vet is necessary. Even when everything appears to be normal, we almost have to sleep with them. When the first nice days appear, together with the stress of the first training flights, we create the perfect atmosphere for the Adenovirus. A quick intervention with the correct antibiotics, also very efficient for the treatment of the E-coli infection is needed, used in combination with drops that boost the immune system. If possible leave your young birds in an open aviary and burn the loft floors (regularly) so the presence of the disease stays at a low level. Feed a light digestible diet like “Super diet” in rationed measures. Don’t train the youngsters give them vitamins together with “Darmconditioner” or “Florastimuli”. With the increase of immunity in the intestines to a level that makes it impossible for the virus to survive. You must be careful as after a few days you could notice a revival of the infection. As soon as the bunch is finding new horizons and everything is looking better, you can start with intensive training flights. From this moment on you can add twice a week vitamins and also two times a week give “Letalook” over the food with “Bier and Melkgist” over the food. Another piece of advice : after feeding give fresh grit and picking stone to the young birds they love it ! You will be able to see the difference by their droppings, this also has a positive affect on the intestines.

 

Feeding.

Some amongst us think feeding young birds is an art, a talent. Personally I am convinced you must take time, you have to open your eyes when feeding time comes. When feeding I observe for the first pigeons to go to the drinker, this is a very important indicator of the quantity of food they depend on. In our system young birds only train in the morning. On landing on the loft they are called directly in. In the loft is waiting a limited amount of “Energie Mix” from “Mariman” and they love it. I find it makes them enter the loft faster even after a race. After this they receive 50% “Junior3M” and 50% “Super diet” until the first ones go to the drinker. It is important to give them small quantities of food. At 1700hr they receive just a few handfuls of mixture ,this way we are able to control the bunch.

 

Racing

The last years ( after the drug regulation) most successful system seems to be the “Darkness System” in combination with a “Widowhood System” for young birds.

Young cocks can be coupled with old hens, allowed to sit on eggs for 10 days, separated and raced for 8 weeks on the widowhood system. Young hens can also be raced this system but only being paired to the old cocks for 4-5 days.

Before you basket, you can show the partner. After the race, leave them together until evening falls or until the morning after. This system is perfect but is very time consuming. Another good system is “Half-Widowhood” : the birds are separated all week. One to two hours before you basket, open the doors and let them run together. The atmosphere in the loft is very important. You must try to create a “cosy” atmosphere for the birds. Create dark corners with cardboard boxes to motivate them. This way you can make the most of “First Love”, and for first love you are able to do everything.

 

G. Young birds programme.

Saturday- water: disinfecting agent after the race

food: clean

Give all the pigeons “OOGZALF” (eye salve)

Sunday- water: clean

food: Weerstand Plus ( one drop per 10 pigeons)

Monday- water: clean

food: Weerstand Plus ( one drop per 10 pigeons)

Tuesday- water: clean

food: Letalook ( one dessert spoon per kg food) OR

Fly-Plus (green vitamin) 10 ml per kg food with

Weerstand Plus ( one drop per 10 pigeons)

Bier and Melkgist ( one dessert spoon per kg food)

Wednesday- water: clean

food: Letalook (hlf dessert spoon per kg food) OR

Fly-Plus ( green vitamin) 10 ml per kg food with

Weerstand Plus ( one drop per 10 pigeons)

Bier and Melkgist ( one dessert spoon per 1 kg food)

Thursday- water: Konditiepoeder

food: Weerstand Plus

Friday- water: Konditiepoeder (day of basket)

food: clean

Give all the pigeons “OOGZALF” (eye salve)

For middle and long distance races for young birds : twice a week AMINOTONIC in the water.

By basketing : 1 capsula “PANA W” per pigeon and eventually “OOGZALF”.After a difficult race : “RECUVIT” (1 tablet in one litre water)

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Part III : Moulting Period

Before this period starts, have a general check up.

As less medication as possible during the moulting period.

 

Moulting Scheme

Monday- food: Moulting mix

water: Duiven Thee or Thee liquid ( pigeon tea)

Tuesday- food: Moulting mix

water: DUIVEN THEE or THE LISUIDE ( pigeon tea)

Wednesday- food: Moulting mix

water: RUI MINERAL ( 10 ml per litre of water or on food)

Thursday- food: Moulting mix with

Letalook (half dessert spoon per kg food)

Bier and Melkgist ( one dessert spoon per kg food)

water: Rui mineral ( 10 ml per kg food)

Friday- food: Moulting mix

water: Duiven Thee or Thee liquid ( pigeon tea)

Saturday- food: Moulting mix

water: clean

Sunday- food: Moulting mix with

Letalook ( half dessert spoon per kg food)

Bier and Melkgist ( one dessert spoon per kg food)

water: Duiven Thee or Thee liquid ( pigeon tea)

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Part IV. : Oversight of Vitamins - Food Supplements - Correct Dosage

 

1. KWEEK EXTRA (yellow vitamin)

Breeding vitamins for racing pigeons

which care for a good - fertilisation

- feather growth

-growth of young birds in the nest

Dosage : 10 ml per litre water or per kilo food, twice a week.

 

2.AMINOTONIC (red vitamins)

Amino acids take care for a perfect development and condition of the birds.

Dosage : 10 ml per litre water or per kilo food, twice a week.

 

3. FLY PLUS. (green vitamins)

Racing vitamins take care of a perfect condition during the whole season.

Dosage : 10 ml per litre water or per kilo food, twice a week.

 

4. RUI MINERAL. (Moulting vitamins)

Stimulates the moult and takes care for perfect plumage.

Dosage : 10 ml per litre water or per kilo food, twice a week.

 

5. ORNILEVURO

Rich in vitamin, proteins, and trace elements.

A must for your pigeons, all year long.

Dosage : 1 dessert spoon per kilo food

2 to 3 times a week

 

6. LETALOOK

Cod liver oil, wheat germ oil and garlic oil for pigeons.

Dosage : 1 dessert spoon per kilo food

2 to 3 times a week.

 

7. PIGEON TEA.

A tea composed with 27 different herbs.

An effective solution for pigeons with respiratory problems on the upper part of the respiratory system. Cleans the blood and has a positive effect on the condition in general. After 7 days the old down feathers come off.

Dosage : 1 dessert spoon per litre water. Leave the herbs in the water for one hour. After this, ad some honey.

 

8. SPECIAL TEA.

Refreshing tea, composed with 25 different herbs.

Can be given the two last days before basketing.

Dosage : 1 tea spoon per litre. Leave the herbs in the water during one hour.

After this, ad some honey.

 

9. CONDITION POWDER.

A combination of vitamins and amino acids. Especially advised when pigeons show no condition.

Dosage: 1 tea spoon per kilo food or per litre water.

 

10. EXTRA ENERGY.

Very nutritive oil from wild seeds. Used as an extra source of energy during the racing season. Especially for middle and long distance races.

Dosage : 1 dessert spoon per 2 kg food, twice a week.

 

11. KREAVIT.

Protects and builds up the muscles.

During 4 days, 7daus before de long distance races.

Dosage : 1 dessert spoon per 2 kilo food.

 

12. CONDITIONER.

Stimulates de activity in the intestines.

After AB treatment or young birds with bad droppings.

Dosage : 1 spoon per kilo, 3 times a week.

 

13. RECUVIT FORTE.

Tablets that take care for a fast recuperation, after difficult races.

Dosage : 1 tablet per litre water.

 

14. LIQUID TEA.

Extracts of 27 different herbs. Positive influence on the respiratory tracs and the general condition and cleans the blood.

Dosage : 1 top of the bottle per litre water.

 

15. PANA W

By basketting for middle and long distance races.

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Part V : Food Schemes for Racing Pigeons

Based on our own experience with the Marman Cerafin mixtures.

 

A. Young Pigeons Sprint Racing

 

Saturday- (day of race) on entry to loft “Energy-Mix”(handful)

(Maiman mix) and 100% “Superwinner”

Sunday- on entry to loft “Energy mix”(handful)

Morning : half “Junior3m” half depurative or 100% “Superwinner”

until just the “Barley” is left then stop with feeding

Evening : half “Junior3m” half depurative or 100% “Superwinner”

plus half the amount of the morning feed

Monday- on entry to the loft “Energy mix”(handful)

Morning : half “Junior3m” half depurative

until just the “Barley” is left then stop with feeding

Evening : half “Junior3m” half depurative or “Superdiet”

plus half the amount of the morning feed

Tuesday on entry to loft “Energy mix”(handful)

Morning : half “Junior3m” half depurative or “Superdiet”

until just the “Barley” is left then stop with feeding

Evening : half “Junior3m” half depurative or “Superdiet”

plus half the amount of the morning feed

Wednesday on entry to loft “Energy mix”(handful)

Morning : 100% “Junior3m”

stop with feeding when the first pigeons go to the drinker

Evening : 100% “Junior3m

stop with feeding when the first pigeons go to the drinker

Thursday on entry to the loft “Energy mix” (handful)

Morning : 100% “Junior3m” as much as they want to eat

Evening : 100% “Junior3m” as much as they want to eat

Friday (day of basket)

on entry to the loft “Energy mix”(handful)

Morning :  100% “Junior3m mixed with conditioner seeds

half normal amount

Evening : nothing given

 

B. Young Birds Middle Distance and National Races

 

Saturday- (day of race) on entry to loft “Energy mix” (handful)

half “Junior3m” half “Super diet”

Sunday- on entry “Energy mix” (handful)

Morning : half “Junior3m” half “Super diet”

feed until the first go for a drink

Evening : half “Junior3m” half “Super diet”

plus half the morning amount

Monday on entry to loft after exercise “Energy mix” (handful)

Morning : half “Junior3m” half “Super diet”

Evening : half “Junior3m” half “Super diet”

plus half the morning amount

Tuesday on entry “Energy mix” (handful)

Morning : half “Junior3m” half “Super diet”

Evening : 100% “Junior3m” with “Energy mix” or conditioner seeds mixed into feed

Wednesday on entry “Energy mix”

Morning : 100% “Junior3m” with “Energy mix” or conditioner seeds mixed into feed

Evening : 100% “Junior3m with “Energy mix” or conditioner seeds mixed into feed

Thursday (day of basket)

100% “Junior3m” with conditioner seeds as much as they like leave the left over for the birds to pick at throughout the day.

Young birds, races once in two weeks: the week they don’t race : � depurative and �

racing mixture.

 

C. Widowhood Sprint racing

 

Saturday (day of race)

*1 teaspoon of conditioner seed then

1 dessert spoon of depurative

Sunday- Morning : 1 dessert spoon depurative or “Super diet”

Evening 1 dessert spoon depurative or “Super diet”

Monday- Morning 1 dessert spoon depurative or “Super diet”

Evening 1 dessert spoon half racing mix and half depurative

Tuesday- Morning : 1 dessert spoon depurative or “Super diet

Evening : 1 dessert spoon half racing half depurative

Wednesday- Morning : 1 dessert spoon half racing mix half depurative

Evening : 1 dessert spoon racing mix

Thursday- Morning : 1 dessert spoon racing mix

Evening : 1 dessert spoon racing mix

plus 1 teaspoon conditioner seeds

Friday- Morning : 1 dessert spoon racing mix

Evening : 1 dessert spoon “Super diet”

1 teaspoon conditioner seeds

 

D. Widowhood Middle Distance

 

Sunday (week of sending)

Morning : 1 dessert spoon “Super diet” + 1 teaspoon conditioner seeds

Evening : 1 dessert spoon racing mix

Monday Morning : 1 dessert spoon racing mix

Evening : 1 dessert spoon racing mix

Tuesday : Morning : 1 dessert spoon racing mix

Evening : 1 dessert spoon racing mix

Wednesday : Morning : 1 dessert spoon racing mix

Evening : 1 dessert spoon racing mix

Thursday (day of basket) Morning : 1 dessert spoon racing mix

Evening : 1 dessert spoon half racing mix half “Super diet”

1 teaspoon conditioner seeds

Saturday (day of return) Morning : 1 dessert spoon “Super diet” or depurative

Evening : 1 dessert spoon “Super diet”1 teaspoon conditioner seeds

 

E. Widowhood Long Distance

 

Wednesday (week of sending) Morning : 1 dessert spoon racing mix

Evening : 1 dessert spoon racing mix 1 teaspoon conditioner seeds

Thursday Morning 1 dessert spoon racing mix

Evening : 1 dessert spoon racing mix 1 teaspoon conditioner seeds

give a bath with bath salts

Friday Morning : 1 dessert spoon racing mix

Evening : 1 dessert spoon racing mix

1 teaspoon conditioner seeds

Saturday  Morning : 1 dessert spoon racing mix

Evening : 1 dessert spoon racing mix

1 teaspoon conditioner seeds

Sunday Morning : 1 dessert spoon racing mix

Evening : 1 dessert spoon racing mix

1 teaspoon conditioner seeds

Monday Morning : 1 dessert spoon racing mix

Evening : 1 dessert spoon racing mix + “Multi Mais Mix”

1 teaspoon conditioner seeds

Tuesday (day of basket) Morning : 1dessert spoon racing mix + “Multi Mais Mix”

Evening : 1dessert spoon “Super diet”

1 dessert spoon conditioner seeds + Multi Mais Mix

Saturday ( day of return) : 1 dessert spoon “Super diet”

Sunday Morning : 1 dessert spoon depurative or “Super diet”

Evening : 1 dessert spoon depurative or “Super diet”

1 teaspoon conditioner seeds

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Part VI. : Interesting information to read.

 

Paratyphoid : A Sleeping Disease

 

I have noticed several times in my clients “Paratyphoid”, which is why I would

like to tell more about this disease. The cause of paratyphoid is the salmonella bacteria. This germ is situated in the intestines, often without any symptoms. Due to the circumstances this illness can appear. It appears mostly with clear eggs dead youngsters in the nest, wet and “slimy” green dropping. These are the most noticeable ailments of the disease. Birds young or old can die or show symptoms like swollen articulation (mainly in the wing elbow). You must understand that these pigeons are unable to gain a top condition also they are a risk to the other inmates. Especially after a stressful race. The germ can become strong enough to cause a lot of problems.

How to recognise the disease.

Several possibilities

A blood test on the unwell bird = this test isn’t 100% reliable and less practice.

An Autopsy examination if my diagnosis isn’t confirmed a bacterial culture is performed a few days later have the results. An extra advantage if the disease is not Paratyphoid you will know faster what other disease is causing all the problems. A culture of mixed droppings especially when you have had to cope with the disease several times. The sleeping disease is not always discovered by this way of investigation.

How to solve this problem.

Remove all the visual infected pigeons from the loft.

A treatment of 10 days (minimum) with a good product, when the vet starts a culture he can also ask an “antibiogram”, this list shows the resistance or the sensibility of the germs. Most products used at this moment are “Sufas” plus “Trimethoprim” and “Enrofloxacine”. Your best to ask the vet what product to useand the dosage as it depends on the time of year. Stock pigeons who have to handle the disease for a second time in a year are given different antibiotics to racing pigeons just before racing starts. After this treatment we advise to vaccinate, pigeons are then able to build a short but strong defence mechanism. Vaccination without treatment in advance does not mean anything because vaccination does not give any protection on the long term. Disinfecting the loft and burning the floors and interior will give big advantages against the disease.

Once the pigeons have recovered from the disease they can perform “normally” again. But with the best care a small percentage will still be carriers of the disease. Extra attention is no luxury. A regular control of mixed droppings will help you. More than once a loft with “Paratyphoid” problems have a fantastic season the year after! There is life after death.

 

Pigeons and Grit

 

Pigeons that eat a lot of grit, even when there is enough available.

Grit has two functions, the small stones help to grind the corn in one of the stomachs of the pigeons. Second grit is a source of calcium needed for thr formation of egg shells, bones……and for youngsters who need it for a good growth pattern, that’s why pigeons with squabs eat a lot of grit. If you notice that your pigeons are still eating a lot of grit even when they are not breeding there must be another reason. It is possible that they are searching for another product Try placing a small pot in the loft with normal table salt or a new product from “Mariman” called “Bio-Start” this is an extra source of proteins. It’s amazing how the lust to pick discontinues after a couple of days on this product.

Something to keep in mind.

 

Pigeon Pox infection during the racing season

Vaccinate immediately or wait and see

 

I would like to give you more information on this disease so finally we can understand it better. Pox is a viral infection ( the importance will be clearer later in this article). The lesions of this virus are yellow-brown in colour, and appear mostly around the eyes and beak occasionally also on the feet. In the months of August and September the highest number of case occur. The explanation for this

a lot of fanciers vaccinate their early youngsters but the second and third round are not vaccinated, so they are not protected from the disease.

The transmission from one bird to another can happen from direct contact (eye) fighting, mating….. also Mosquito’s and Red mite, these insects are at there most active in these months.

Solutions

A curative solution is impossible because Pox is a viral infection, birds have to build up their own resistance to conquer the enemy. We can treat for other infections like canker, eye infections…. After consulting your vet pigeons with the pox virus in their mouths and eyes can be fed manually. This way the birds will be able to win the battle.

Preventative cures.

We can vaccinate the birds (only for pox or the combination pox - paramyxo) or another cure is to pluck some feathers from the top of the leg, then brush on a product. Short after vaccination, pigeons can become ill. Being careful on this moment is the advise. It happened more than once that a lot of young birds got lost a few days after the vaccination, especially when these birds train already very well. This fact make me conclude that a vaccination during the racing season is not ideal, even when there is chance on infection. So take care that your birds are vaccinated a few weeks before the active season starts.

After vaccination, pigeons are safe for one year. Don’t think that one vaccination protects your birds a life time. I could give you many examples from old and yearling birds, vaccinated as young bird, infected by pox.

When your pigeons are infected, it is impossible to race, but the chance that these pigeons die is very rare. Vaccination costs almost nothing so don’t take the risk and just vaccinate your birds. This way you are save, at least for one year.

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